if we do not follow them.’ Principles and policies are only for H&M. They are
only followed when they serve H&M and when H&M is winning.”71
There has however been some success with a different union at H&M stores
in Turkey. In September 2017, Türk-İş, a member of Turkey Cooperatives,
Commerce and Office Workers’ Union’s (Koop-İş), began unionisation efforts
at H&M. The Union’s application to the Labour Ministry received a positive
result, subsequently receiving a competency certificate with a letter dated
February 15, 2019.72 A social dialogue was established between the parties
with the support of global unions, and collective bargaining negotiations
started on April 24, 2019.73
Source: Tez-Koop-İş Sendikası
H&M
Hugo Boss
- H&M workers are not alone,
right to associate cannot be
prevented!
A September 2018 Clean Clothes Campaign report on
the working conditions in Swedish company H&M’s supplier firms confirms
these findings. According to interviews conducted with workers in Bulgaria,
Cambodia, India and Turkey in that year, a portion of workers only get paid
the legal minimum wage if they work overtime and fulfil their quotas.70 This
violates the legal requirement that the statutory minimum wage must be
earned in regular working hours. The International Labour Organization
defines this as forced labour.
At the same time, H&M has a large store network in Turkey, with 3,100
employees and 72 stores. At these stores an employee leading unionisation
efforts was dismissed in 2018 without severance pay. In an interview with TezKoop-İş Union’s Gencemek magazine he talked about the company’s stance
towards its employees as following:
““H&M is getting Turkified (he smiles). The fact that rules are not applied in
Turkey, flexible rules, lack of sanctions and the working class not seeking for
its rights…. Because they are aware of this situation, I think that they got to
the point of ‘We’re already doing this, we have many rules, but it will be fine
Background Information
Specialised in mens-wear and womens-wear, Hugo Boss AG is a German
company that produces clothes. It has at least 6,100 stores in 110
countries.
The company has published a “Code of Conduct.” The document
guarantees that HUGO BOSS has committed itself and its suppliers to
comply with the internationally recognized social and labour rights laid
down in the Conventions of the ILO.74 In Article 3.9 of the company’s “Social
Standards” document, in addition to all other rights, it states that the
company recognizes the right to freedom of association.75
Since 1999, Turkey has been a production site for Hugo Boss. The production
site in the Aegean Free Zone is among the foremost manufacturing centres in
the world for products such as suits, shirts and women’s clothes.
71 Gencemek, Sayı:2, s.69 (http://www.tezkoopis.org/uploads/genc2.pdf)
72 https://www.koopis.org.tr/haber/koop-is-sendikasi-ndan-yeni-bir-oerguetlenme-zaferi/120 (Accessed on 26.08.2019)
73 https://www.koopis.org.tr/haber/h-m-birinci-doenem-toplu-is-soezlesmesi-goeruesmelerine-baslandi/186 (Accessed
on 26.08.2019)
74 https://group.hugoboss.com/fileadmin/media/pdf/sustainability/EN/Code_of_Conduct.pdf (Accessed on 26.08.2019)
70 H&M: Fair Living Wages Were Promised, Poverty Wages are the Reality (Research Findings on Wages at H&M’s Strategic Suppliers) Clean Clothes Campaign report [https://turnaroundhm.org/hm-wages-september2018-full-107815e8a7bc3b
75 https://group.hugoboss.com/fileadmin/media/pdf/sustainability/EN/Social_Standards_EN.pdf (Accessed on
d4ffbfeca3426f1dcd.pdf]
26.08.2019)
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C O L L E C T I V E R I G H T S O F W O R K E R S U N D E R T U R K E Y ’ S C O N T I N U O U S S TAT E O F E M E R G E N C Y
T R A D E U N I O N R I G H T S I N E U R O P E A N A N D E U R O P E A N - A F F I L I AT E D E N T E R P R I S E S
E X A M P L E S O F C O L L E C T I V E L A B O U R R I G H T S V I O L AT I O N S I N E U R O P E A N I N V E S T M E N T E N T E R P R I S E S
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